당신에 대한 간단한 소개를 부탁한다. Introduce yourself briefly.

이혜진. 2019년 6월 런던 컬리지 오브 패션에서 맨즈웨어 학부를 졸업했다. 양 리(YANG LI) 디자인 팀의 어시스턴트로 근무했다.

Hyejin Lee. I graduated from the London College of Fashion in June 2019 with a BA degree in Menswear. I also worked for Yang Li, engaged within a design team as an assistant.

브랜드는 언제, 어떻게 만들게 되었나? When did you start your brand?

일리는 졸업 컬렉션과 동시에 시작했다. 내 이름 이혜진의 ‘이’와 영문 표기법 ‘Lee’ 두 가지를 합쳐 ‘YI’+’LEE’로 지었다.

I started YILEE as soon as I graduated. The name of the brand is from ‘YI’+’LEE’ that are two versions of the English notation of my name.

이번 컬렉션의 주제는 무엇인가? What is the main theme of this collection?

코미디 영화 <나쵸 리브레>를 떠올렸다. 성직자와 레슬러라는 두 직업 세계관 안에서 자신의 재능과 현실 간의 괴리를 느끼는 신부의 이야기로 극명하게 다른 두 자아의 충돌이 주제인 영화를 옷으로 풀어내려고 했다. 패션과 현실 사이에서 고민했던 과거 내 모습이 떠오르기도 했고, 영화 비주얼의 색감이나 요소에서 흥미로운 부분들이 많아 이번 시즌 주제로 정하게 되었다.

The main theme for my collection ‘Performer’ came from ‘Nacho Libre’, a film about a friar who whose occupation conflicts with his desire to also be a wrestler. I tried to reflect those two distinctively different egos within the film on my collection, as it reminded me of my own past conflict between fashion and reality. I was also attracted to the intriguing visuals, colours, and stories in the movie. That’s why I chose it as my main theme.

소재나 컬러, 실루엣 등 특별히 눈여겨봐야 할 디테일이 있다면? Are there any special details such as fabric, colour or silhouette?
 

레슬러의 가운을 앞뒤로 바꿔 앞에서 보면 수도승, 뒤에서 보면 레슬러의 이미지가 그대로 드러나는 룩, 칼라까진 수도승이지만 레슬러의 챔피언 벨트가 박힌 톱과 아우터, 레슬러의 깊게 파인 슬리브리스 톱이 수도승의 단정한 슈트에 이리저리 엮여 트위스트된 셋업 슈트. 구조적인 어깨 셰이프는 운동 선수들이 많이 쓰는 숄더 프로텍터의 실루엣을 드라마틱하게 과장해서 가져왔다. 색감은 영화의 비주얼을 많이 참고했고, 레슬러 의상 특유의 강렬한 원색을 쓰려고 했다.

Y Holy Poncho is a friar’s gown when viewed from the front but possesses a wrestler’s cloak at the back. The tops and outers of the neck collar are representative of clerical collars, and the waist has a championship belt. The set-up suit has a wrestler’s sleeveless tops woven around a clerical suit in a randomly twisted way. The structured shoulder shapes from a dramatically exaggerated shoulder protector for athletes. The vivid primary colour palette is taken directly from the visuals of the film and their use in authentic wrestlers' costumes.

이번 컬렉션 제작에 큰 영감을 준 것이 있었다면? What inspired the collection the most?

가장 직접적으로 영향을 받은 건 영화 <나쵸 리브레>지만 늘 나에게 영감과 영향을 주는 건 동료 디자이너, 포토그래퍼, 스타일리스트, 헤어와 메이크업 아티스트, 모델 등 함께 작업하는 이들이다. 런던에서 함께 우여곡절을 겪기도한 그들은 일리의 일부이기도 하고.

The most direct inspiration is ‘Nacho Libre’, but what always inspires me is my fellow designers, photographers, stylists, hair and makeup artists, and models. The collectivity of people who have experienced highs and lows in from London is also a key part of YILEE.

컬렉션을 만들면서 가장 어려웠던 점은? What was the most challenging point of the collection?

구조적이고 패턴이 복잡한 디자인을 실물화하는 부분이 언제나 가장 어렵다. 또 대중성까지 확장하려면 견고함과 실용성까지도 고려해야한다. 다시 런던으로 돌아가 대학원에 진학하려는 이유도 이 부분을 더 계발하기 위함이다.

The realisation of structured and intricate patterned garments is always the hardest element. Moreover, I have had to consider solidity and practicality to expand popularity. The reason why I want to go back to London and study for an MA is to develop this aspect in-depth.

가장 마음에 드는 룩은? What is your favourite look for this collection?

과장된 어깨가 돋보이는 룩(2, 3). 실루엣, 컬러, 기술적인 부분에서 가장 많이 고민했던 룩이라 분명 아쉬움이 있지만 가장 애착이 간다.

The Random Twisted Jersey Top with Exaggerated Wing Shoulder Tops of Looks 2 and 3. They were certainly the most technical, so I’m attached.

궁극적으로 어떤 옷을 추구하나? What fashion would you ultimately pursue?

실루엣, 구조적인 디자인, 소재와 컬러의 과감함을 이용해 수면 아래에 있는 문화나 집단을 재해석하고 현대화하고 싶다. 그리고 쇼피스로 그치는 것이 아닌, 대중성까지 확장하는 것이 목표다.

I would like to reinterpret and contemporise hidden cultures and groups by using the boldness of silhouette, structures, materials and colours. I also want to further strengthen the popularity of my collections, not just only in showpieces.